Pilgrimage

Pilgrimage...

My last day in Istanbul before leaving to Bodrum, I set out on a day trip to Kasımpaşa which is located below Beyoğu, where Golden Horn meets Marmara sea. My mother was born and raised here. I have very found memories of the area.

These yearly trips from Ankara to Istanbul were highlights of my childhood memories. We would stay with my grandfather who owned a three level row house on Kulaksız Caddesi and a tatlıcı (primarily baklava) store on the main street. 

I loved having breakfast on the lower level around a tepsi and yer sofrası (a ground spread) with my cousins and aunts. This breakfast room was connected to a large kitchen and a laundry area. Main floor had a large sitting room with fine chairs and sofas, sedirs (divans) in front of the bay windows. The center of the room had a very large copper mangal (brazier) to warm the room when guests arrived, although I never saw it being used. The third floor had bedrooms and an a la turka toilet shared by all of us, etc. It was a nice house. We played in the backyard and could see the Golden Horn shore filled with wooden boats (takas). There was a huge fig tree.  Every morning, after breakfast my mom would take us to Beyoğlu, visit her favorite stores in the passages located under the magnificent apartment buildings. She would shop for textiles then visit the button and belt makers, place orders for her latest creations.  Next day take the tram to Karaköy, she would eat balık ekmek (fish sandwich), we would eat fried potatoes. Her hands holding our hands firmly, we would walk over the Galata bridge to Sultan Hamam area where she would do more shopping. 

My mother loved fashion, she could sew, and followed the latest trends. She walked and talked to the merchants with such gusto. On the way back, we would stop by the grandfather's store. My brother and I would be served baklava, tulumba combo by him. My aunt was the cashier. Somehow I never got bored with these daily walks. After a week or so, we would take the bus to Ankara where my father worked.

Kasımpaşa has a rough reputation among Istanbulians for the reasons I can not comprehend. Best way to explain what I mean is if you intend to insult someone, call that person "Kasımpaşalı" (you are from Kasımpaşa), it would basically cover every insult you intended to make. I leave it to your imagination.

Yes, my mother is Kasımpaşalı. I am proud to admit that  I consider myself Kasımpaşalı as well. As far as I know, people of Kasımpaşa are hard working, honest, talented people.

To be continued...