My day in Kasımpaşa continues...

I make my way to Kasımpaşa one step at a time, first the public bus then the ferry to Karaköy and determined to walk from Karaköy. I feel like a cat who is sniffing her way home after a long absence, and settling back on her pillow by the window as if nothing has changed. Comfortable walk pattern replaces my uncertain look as soon as I pass by the Kasımpaşa Sports lounge. The Kasımpaşa mosque is right at the corner of Kulaksız Caddesi and Bahriye Blvd. A little coffee house resting its back at the wall of the mosque.  Mostly elderly men sitting on short legged chairs called tabure, also used as table. There are ashtrays available, as if they have never been emptied or washed since the neighborhood used to be called Aya Lonka.

I feel the curious eyes following me around. I bet they are expecting me to ask a question, assuming I am lost.  Nothing can be further than that. I am found in Kasimpasa. I linger by the Kasimpasa Camii a bit, and keep on walking.

I walk by the stores on main street, hoping that I will find a similar baklava store where Ahmet Kasim usta  (my dede) baked six trays of baklava every day.

I look for a white marble counter, shelves where the weights for the scale rested, large round copper trays lined up. I look for myself and my brother sitting on the corner with our tatli plates getting ready to take the first bite.

This is the story of  Ahmet Kasım Usta who was born in Ruscuk in Bulgaria with his twin sister Nefise to a Crimean Tatar family in 1898. According the story told by my aunt who has lived the longest with my dede in Kasımpaşa. She is the eldest of four children and also taught Turkish Literature at the Kasımpaşa Lisesi for many years.

Ahmet Kasım's family was torn apart by the Balkan War and by the age 15 he had nobody other than his twin sister. One night he sat by the bedside of Nefise and told her his plans.

- Are you sleeping Nefise? Don't please sleep, We need to talk. You trust me right, you will listen to me right?

- Yes...

- We will go to İstanbul tomorrow.

- Why?

- We will be safer there. Look around us. Everybody is leaving, Nefise. This war is taking a toll on our community. But, I will not go without you. "Anca beraber, kanca beraber" said our mother. You have not forgotten that or have you Nefise? I planned everything. 

- Tell me a fairy tale, Ahmet, so I can have a good night sleep.

Ahmet could not stop talking. He pulled out his map and told Nefise what he planned, how he planned. He said other friends and their families are also planning to leave by the same route.  The more he talked, the deeper Nefise slept.

Next night, Ahmet Kasım prepared the horse. He packed his baklava equipment, water container and prepared a seat on the saddle for Nefise. He was ready to go.

To be continued...